Images Courtesy of Hugo Boss
For the new BOSS Womenswear Cruise Collection, Jason Wu develops, refines and defines the house signatures already introduced in his debut runway collection.
The silhouette is refined, skirts slender or full below a taut torso. The masculine wardrobe provides the foundation pieces: slouchier, easier trousers, tailored jackets and knits, contrasted with the femininity synonymous with Jason Wu. “Its important to have that balance between the clear lines and the seductive,” says Jason Wu.
Borrowing from BOSS’ heritage as one of the most refined men’s suits and shirting manufacturers in the world, Wu reinvents the latter garment as a sleek shirt-dress. Decoration is minimal, pared back to pleats and seams, the cut of the cloth providing the detail. Deconstructed two-piece collars create a modern new focal-point.
Asymmetry eases the harshness of intricate geometrics, injecting a touch of nature to the man-made. Pleats and pin-tucks decorate single panels on shirts, or form floating panes on embroidered evening dresses.
Graphics instantly brings feelings of the Bauhaus, and of the architecture of the HUGO BOSS ateliers in Metzingen, Germany. Jacquards and knits play on grid patterns or intricate herringbones of bicolor chevrons.
Black and white form the core, combined with hematite grey and teal, while an evening gown offers a mercurial streak of palest silver.
“HUGO BOSS is not French, nor Italian – it’s German and the approach is very different,” says BOSS Artistic Director Jason Wu. “It’s reflected in the architecture, art and the way of working. It’s pursuit of perfection.”