For the Carven Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Guillame Henry introduces a women who diverted a 40’s wardrobe with an accurate sense of shapes and attributes. The gangster’s girlfriend of the pre-collection turned into a women of the Arts, borrowing references from Dadaism, collages and cadavres exquis by Blumenfeld, Picabia, Oppenheim or Man Ray.
Square structured shoulders, strangled waist and various lengths layers are the core of this collection which takes over the post war glamour silhouette and the photo booth culture for a Paris/New York overall feel.
Embellished with collage-like details, unveil flowered rich jacquards, leopard prints and surrealist patterns. Mixing couture touches and sports details, zips on astrakhan-like embossed rabbit, faux and real merging furs, mink and natural wool, as well as creased fabrics. The richness of gold and crystals punctuates the silhouette.
Serge Poliakoff’s colors enhance the palette with shades evoking the faded hues of the first color pictures from interwar years, juxtaposing a stormy blue, a powder pink, a dark paprika and an electric saffron. Bold tones connect to one another through precious materials such as lurex tweeds in granite or gold.
Bags and shoes feature precious details combining mirror shards and colored fur touches hide at the bottom of pockets, an idea of supreme luxury.